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There are a few key pieces of equipment that required for any dive, and some other equipment that is used for more challenging diving conditions. Beginners and novice divers, however, will definitely need the following:
Mask
The human eye cannot see clearly through water so a pocket of air is required to maintain vision when diving. A diving mask is like a large pair of swimming goggles with a silicone seal all the way round. It also includes a silicone pocket/seal for the nose, to prevent the wearer inadvertently trying to breathe through their nose and sucking in water instead. Diving masks are built to withstand the greater pressures found underwater, so a snorkelling mask is not suitable for diving.
Fins
Divers get quite shirty if you refer to fins as “flippers”, so be sure to get your terminology right! Physical effort, such as swimming, uses energy and to fuel that energy oxygen is required, which is why people breathe more heavily when doing exercise. Underwater, the diver wishes to conserve energy to make the air in his cylinder last longer. Fins, therefore, are used to make swimming underwater as effortless as possible. Fins are large, flexible blades attached to the feet, which provide maximum propulsion through the water for minimum physical effort. There are two basic types of fins: shoe fins fit onto the bare foot like a slipper, strap fins have a foot pocket with a strap that fits around the heel and are worn with boots.
Protective Clothing
Even in warm water, some form of protective clothing is required. There are four main types:-
• A skin suit is a thin layer that just protects the body from abrasion, either from the equipment worn or from brushing against rocks, corals etc. A skin suit is only worn in the warmest water.
• A wet suit provides some thermal protection as well as protecting against abrasion. Wet suits are available with long or short arms and legs and in a range of thicknesses. Made of neoprene, a wet suit allows water to flush through it, holding a thin layer next to the skin, which the body warms, providing some defence against slightly cooler water temperatures.
• A semi-dry suit is rather like a wet suit but has seals around the neck, wrists and ankles. Water ingresses into the suit and is then trapped there to be warmed by the body. A semi dry suit offers greater thermal protection than a wet suit.
• A dry suit is used for cold water diving and allows no water to ingress at all. A dry suit has built in boots and seals around the wrists and neck; inside the suit the body stays dry. Additional thermal protection is worn underneath a dry suit, in the form of warm under layers. Dry suits are made either from neoprene or a trilaminate membrane; neoprene suits tend to be slightly warmer than membrane, although membrane suits allow greater freedom of movement. When diving in cold water, neoprene hoods and gloves are usually also worn for warmth. Special training is required before diving in a dry suit.
Buoyancy Compensation Device
There are several types of buoyancy compensation device (BCD), variously known as BCDs, BCs (buoyancy compensators), stab (stabilizer) jackets and wings. All work in the same way. The BCD is worn like a jacket and consists of internal air bladders, a hose for adding or extracting air from the bladders, a loop system for holding an air cylinder and usually some pockets and D-rings for holding other pieces of equipment. The air that is added to or taken out of the internal bladders controls buoyancy underwater and the rate of descent and ascent to and from the surface.
Weights
A human being is naturally buoyant, and even when carrying a heavy dive cylinder will not automatically sink under the water. To counteract this natural buoyancy, therefore, divers wear lead weights, either on a belt, in a harness or in the pockets of their BCD. Whilst underwater a small amount of air is added to the BCD to keep the diver off the bottom, or at the depth they have chosen, and whilst on the surface the BCD is filled with air to counteract the negative effect of the weights.
Cylinders
Contrary to popular belief, diving cylinders to do NOT contain oxygen, they contain air. The air is compressed and held in the cylinder under pressure (measured in either pounds per square inch (psi) or bar) by a valve on the top. Cylinders are usually made of steel or aluminium and come in a range of sizes, measured in cubic feet or litres. The advantage of a larger cylinder is that it contains more air, and therefore the diver can stay underwater longer; the disadvantage is the heavier weight. All diving cylinders must be periodically inspected and tested by independently accredited testing facilities to ensure they are safe.
Regulators
Regulators, often referred to simply as “regs”, are more properly called “a set of regulators”, since there are several component parts. The air in the cylinder is held at very high pressure, which a human being cannot breathe, so the “first stage”, which includes a clamp that attaches to the cylinder, reduces the pressure of the air to around 140psi/10 bar above ambient pressure (ambient pressure increases with depth). Attached to the first stage are a series of high pressure hoses. In a typical set up for a novice diver, one of the hoses will be the “feed” for the BCD, one will accommodate the mouthpiece (or “demand valve”), one an alternative air source (also known as an “octopus”) and one a contents gauge.
• The Demand Valve (DV) delivers breathable air to the diver via a mouthpiece. The DV reduces the air pressure further to match the ambient pressure. The diver breaths in and out through the DV, the exhaled air being expelled through an exhaust on the DV, producing the characteristic bubbles associated with breathing underwater.
• The octopus is a second DV to be used by a diving buddy in the case of emergency. It is usually bright yellow in colour for easy identification underwater.
• The contents gauge shows the diver how much air is left in the cylinder and is usually a round dial with a needle to point to the appropriate level. Sometimes content gauges can be combined with other instruments in a console, which might include a depth gauge and/or a compass.
Computer
Nearly all modern divers use a computer. The computer is worn on the wrist like an oversized watch and has many functions. The computer will tell the diver his depth, how long he has been diving and how long he can remain underwater without the need for decompression stops on ascent. It also measures the rate of ascent back to the surface (it is very important to control this as ascending too quickly can cause decompression sickness, also known as “the bends”). The computer has other functions such as calculating decompression stops and some can also be used for accelerated decompression using a mixture of breathing gases, but these are advanced techniques and therefore need not concern the beginner.
IMPORTANT NOTE
It is IMPERRATIVE that anyone considering scuba diving undertakes proper training with a recognised training body. None of the equipment mentioned in this article should be used without instruction. With proper training, scuba diving is a fun, exciting, pleasurable hobby; without, it can be very dangerous indeed.
For more detail visiting my blog created for you! Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/scuba-diving-articles/scuba-diving-equipment-1190343.html
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Scuba diving equipment has evolved to become sophisticated, incredibly safe, reliable and high performance. There’s a massive range of options and features available, to allow scuba diving in any environment.
To familiarize you with how a set of scuba diving gear works, we’ll run you through a basic set, and discuss what options and features would be suitable for warm water Koh Tao diving.
How Does Scuba Gear Work: A Typical Koh Tao Diving Setup
Scuba Cylinder
Firstly we need somewhere to store the air which we’ll be breathing whilst underwater. Scuba cylinders or tanks) come in a range of sizes and materials. Scuba diving Koh Tao we opt for aluminum cylinders, which are resistant to the corrosive salty ocean conditions, compressing air into 12 litre cylinders at two hundred time normal atmospheric pressure (200 bar). That volume of air allows an average diver to dive for about 45 minutes at normal recreational depths, (factoring in a safety margin).
Regulator – First Stage
This is the bit which attaches to the valve of the scuba cylinder. Since the air inside the cylinder is at two hundred times normal pressure, we need to reduce that pressure down to make it breathable. This is the job of the regulator first stage. Most first stages reduce down the pressure to about ten bar above ambient water pressure (called the intermediate pressure), which is then fed down to the ….
Regulator - Second Stage
This is the bit that you put in your mouth and breathe from. The second stage contains a large diaphragm which the surrounding water pressure pushes on. What that does is adjust the intermediate pressure (delivered from the first stage) to exactly the same pressure as the surrounding water. The result is that when you breathe in, a valve opens and allows air to flow freely. When you stop breathing in or exhale, the valve remains closed allowing you to conserve your air supply.
Regulator - Alternate Air Source
In case your buddy has an equipment problem, you also have a alternate second stage attached to your first stage, which means in the event of an emergency your buddy can also breathe from your cylinder. This is one of the reasons why it’s always a good idea to stick with a buddy when scuba diving.
Buoyancy Control Device - BCD
Obviously we need a way of keeping the cumbersome cylinder attached to us, so the BCD is a robust jacket which allows you to strap the cylinder to your back. The BCD also has a second important function. You can adjust the amount of air inside the jacket so that you hover motionlessly in mid water and control your position underwater. Whilst at the surface you can inflate the BCD to avoid swimming to stay afloat, and save energy.
Wetsuit
Your body looses heat about twenty times faster in water than air, so you’ll need to wear some kind of exposure protection to keep warm. The good news is, Koh Tao diving has very warm water – usually about 30C. That means during the Padi open water course we usually wear a 2.5mm neoprene ‘shorty’ wetsuit , which keeps us comfortable during the dives.
Weights
The bad news is that neoprene is buoyant (as is body fat), so to be able to descend underwater we have to carry some lead weights. The easiest way to do this (adopted by most Koh Tao dive schools) is to attach the lead to a weight belt which you secure around your waist prior to each dive.
Scuba Diving Mask
Your eyes can’t focus in water, so you need to wear a mask to be able to see when diving. If you have a little spare cash and plan to invest in piece of scuba diving gear of your own, make sure you buy a mask. A good diving mask makes all the difference to your Koh Tao diving experience – if you can see properly you’ll have a much better time!
Diving Fins
With all this gear, it becomes a bit tricky getting around underwater. To make life easier we wear large, rigid diving fins which take all the effort out of swimming, allowing us to maintain our air supply and explore the Koh Tao dive sites with ease.
For more info, visit the Simple Life website [http://www.simplelifedivers.com], and don’t miss part two of our series of lessons from the Koh Tao Padi open water course, where we examine some realities and myths of dangerous aquatic life!
For more info visit the Simple Life Diving Koh Tao website at: Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/scuba-diving-articles/lessons-from-the-koh-tao-open-water-diving-course-part-1-equipment-1098793.html
http://www.simplelifedivers.com
Or tel/fax +66 77 456 329
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One of the most important things you can learn from scuba diving is to wash your equipment and gear. Its very important to maintain your gear to get maximum life span and ensure your gear performs safely when diving.
Washing Station Setup
The simplest way to prepare your washing station is to fill a large bathtub at home which will be filled with fresh water. If no bathtub then a simple hose or sink will work just as well. Many dive shops or resorts will have two tubs; one tub will be water for general gear such as wetsuits and other equipment while the other will be for specialist equipment such as cameras and diver computers and any other sensitive gadgets.
Where possible if your gear has a lot of sand on it is to hose it down before dunking it in the tub.
Regulator
The first thing before you start to wash your regulator is to ensure your dust cap is secure as any water that enters the first stage will cause water to enter the internal parts and cause damage.
Before you replace the dust cap you will need to dry the dust cap and the opening of the first stage. The easiest way is to use your tank to blow air onto the two components and this will dry the parts adequately, alternatively you may use a dry cloth to do the job.
Once this is done you need to place the regulator in freshwater for 5 minutes, avoid pressing the purge button as this will allow water to enter the first stage. It best to rotate any moving parts to ensure there is no salt which in the long run will rust. Once Its been soaked and cleaned hang it up and dry.
BCD
Washing a BCD comes in two parts, the internal and external of the BCD. The external is straight forward and can be dunked and soaked in a tub of freshwater to wash any salt off the BCD.
Step two as mentioned is the internal of the BCD, this will need to be done as small quantities of saltwater will enter while diving, and this will turn to salt crystals which over time will cause the values to malfunction and the internal bladder to tear.
So here is how to do it, Press the deflate button on the BCD and allow freshwater to enter to approximate 25%, afterwards shake the BCD and allow the water the wash around all corners. Once you are happy you have washed the internal the best method is to use the exhaust values to empty the water which at the same time will clean them too.
Now slight inflate the BCD to ensure the internal bladder does not stick together when drying and hang out to dry.
Dive Computer and Camera
Wash your dive computer in clean freshwater and not the same water you have washed your other gear as detergents and sand will damage your sensitive equipment. Soak this equipment for a longer time and press all the buttons ensure there is no salt trapped. If possible brush the surfaces with a toothbrush to hep clean it better, but don't use on the sensors or lenses area as it could damage it.
Wetsuit, Booties, and Gloves
Your wetsuit, booties, and gloves need to be washed in freshwater and you may also like to add a wetsuit detergent. Submerge the items in the water and turn them inside out too and keep washing until clean. Once clean hang out and allow to dry.
Fins, Mask, Snorkel, and Other Equipment
All other equipment should be submerged in fresh water, dunked up and down until clean and hung up to dry.
Tips: to prolong the life of your gear don't hang out in direct sunlight as it will make the equipment discolour and reduce the life span.
Simon James has been diving for 15 years and is an authority in the field so take a look at this website called M2 Nocturnal Lights and SLX 300 Nocturnal led dive lights Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/scuba-diving-articles/washing-scuba-equipment-978687.html
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First Stage Regulator
what am i missing?
i have a 98 honda accord and i thought that i have finally finished it but i still feel like i am missing something, its lowered 3.5 inches carbon fiber lip, 18" khuma wheels black with crome lip, injen catback exuast and intake, dc sports hearders and pullys and cam gears, type r cam, probe indu. high dome pistons, valve springs, port polished head, stage 3 clutch, throttle body, injectors, fuel pump and regulator and fuel rails, short shifter, msd ignition and ecu upgrade (programable), vetech controller. i have been working on this car for 6 years and now i finally got it into the 9's with slicks and i feel like im missing something, my shop has already tuned it (honda high performance and tuning), im putting about 360 hp to the wheels without nos or a turbo and about 380 torque so i got that i just feel like im missing something will someone please see if i have missed something.
sorry man, but I dont think that it is possible that you have 360whp on an N/A accord. Especially with those mods. Type R cam? I didnt know that accords came with B-series engines.
And the fact that you've put so much time and effort into your Honda, and spent countless hours looking at the engine, you should know that it's VTEC not vetech.
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Trey Wasser: Identifying Stars in the Mexican Precious Metals Universe (Pt. I)
Trey Wasser, who designed the Mexican Gold & Silver Explorers Model to track junior explorers and producers as they define and develop precious metal assets and bring them into profitable production, took a breather from his frequent travels south of the border to spend some time with The Gold Report.
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First Stage
What is the life expectancy of a seven year old male boxer with first stage heart worms?
I took my dog to the vet today and they said he had the first stage of heart worms. I was wondering how long does he have before he starts to feel discomfort and starts to effect him drastically.
Longer if you start treatment ASAP. If cost is an issue, most vets have payment plans where you can pay off the bill over a period of time. There is also CareCredit; if yours doesn't do it or have a payment plan, shop around for one that does.
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One of the most memorable aspects of your wedding is your first dance. However, most people just wing it and end up doing the side to side boring dance. So much time is spent on every single little detail from the flowers to the color of the chair covers to the exact songs you want played; the list goes on and on and on. Very little time is spent on planning your first dance which is when everyone will be watching you. Your first dance is a moment that will be played over and over on your video and so many pictures will be taken of that very special moment. Two main reasons people do not prepare for their first dance is:
TIME
We are all so busy working and planning. Your wedding is a huge deal and most of your waking hours during the wedding planning stage away from work and home will be with your florist or at the reception venue or the cake decorator, etc... So fitting in dance lessons unfortunately gets put off. Not only the hours spent at the dance studio learning, but also the time spent commuting to and from the studio.
MONEY
Weddings seem to cost an arm and a leg these days. According to The Wedding Report, Inc., "On average, US couples spend $20,398 for their wedding. This does not include cost for a honeymoon or engagement ring." Getting private first dance lessons cost between $75-$100 per hour and most couples need 4-6 lessons for a basic simple dance routine and 10-15 lessons for a custom choreographed routine! So adding another $300-$1,500 just isn't in the budget.
SOLUTION
There are many resources today that teach dance online and may be an affordable time saving option for you. Your first dance is just too important for you not to be prepared. The side benefits of dancing are weight loss, stress reduction and a serious dose of laughter! You will feel so much better knowing how to dance; making those four minuets the most magical minutes of your life.
Learn Your First Dance Online – Save time and money
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